Infocus: with cook Julia Busuttil Nishimura
Image by Jessica Grilli
“My husband, Nori, is Japanese and I’m the daughter of Maltese parents – that identity is really important for our boys. It is just part of our everyday lives, through language, food, stories, and conversations. ”
Julia epitomises the quintessential matriarch- oscillating between roles as a culinary artist, author, advocate, and mother of two. Her narrative as both a creative force and devoted parent resonates profoundly, illustrating that you can do it all. She welcomed her son Haruki at an early age, still fresh in her culinary career. Now immersed in the realm of parenthood with Haruki at 9 years old and Yukito at 4, Julia has authored four acclaimed books, gracing the pages of esteemed gastronomic publications such as Gourmet Australia and Good Food Weekend. Her recent book Good Cooking Everyday comes out in September and if you haven’t preordered it (do it).
Her culinary style distinctly honours her Maltese heritage and her husband’s Japanese lineage, meticulously weaving their cultural tapestries through her recipes that pass down for generations. A personal favourite is her beef short ribs which get made on rotation in our home. In this exclusive interview we speak of raising children of dual identities in Australian society, the importance of family dinner time and inspiring our kids about food. This one is tasty - bon appetit.
Image by Jessica Grilli
How has becoming a mother influenced your approach to cooking and writing about food?
I do often think about my food and cooking before and after becoming a mother and how it has changed. Cooking has always been such a bringer of joy since I was little. It has been something that has been such a constant in my life and when I had kids, this desire to cook and feed only grew stronger. I suppose time becomes more precious when you become a mother, and having kids has only made me even more appreciative of the time I get to spend in the kitchen. I feel so grateful that I get to cook everyday for work and that my kids are such a part of that journey. The kind of food I make hasn’t really shifted all that much, although now I feel like I am far more conscious of people who have busy family lives when writing recipes or making suggestions.
Could you tell me about a memorable food-related experience from your childhood that has influenced the style in which you cook today? Who taught you how to cook?
I can still remember standing at the island bench in my aunty’s kitchen surrounded by my mum and aunties. We were making ravjul - a stuffed Maltese pasta. It was loud and full and felt like being part of a club. We made dozens and dozens and packaged them up to freeze. There are some other key food memories, but there was something about turning flour and water into dough to make something so beautiful which really stuck with me. So I think I learned to cook from a lot of people. My mum, my grandparents, my aunties, cookbooks, tv shows, magazines. I soaked up anything food-related!
Your philosophies on family dinner time?
Dinner time is just the best. We always sit together at the table and I think it’s such an important time together. It’s when all the best and worst bits of everyone’s day gets talked about and where we feel most together. We don’t cook anything different for the boys but at the same time don’t pressure them to eat everything. Mealtime is (we hope) a positive experience for the boys!
Image by Jessica Grilli
Finish this sentence. My son’s favourite meals are….
Pasta with a meat sauce for Yuki and gyoza served with steamed rice for Haruki.
How do you involve your children in the kitchen to foster their interest in food and cooking?
It is always led by them. Whenever they see me cooking, they want to come and help. I get Yuki to do small tasks like peeling or chopping or stirring. Haru has been cooking with me since he was so little and now he makes things by himself, like scrambled eggs or porridge. It’s nice to see them interested in my wall of cookbooks and they often, especially Haru, pick something from a cookbook to make on the weekend. It is such a lovely thing and I try to encourage it as much as possible as I know that’s how I began my own cooking journey.
Image by Jessica Grilli
Obsessed with your city guides and using some tips for our own family Japan trip. For those who haven’t travelled with kids, the most significant lessons you learned from your time abroad with small people?
Travelling with kids can be so rewarding and fun but of course it definitely comes with different challenges and can be equally exhausting too. I think not having everything planned to the minute is helpful. Some days are going to be slower than others and I think a lot of it is managing expectations. Conversely, I think it’s important to feel like you’re doing things you’re interested in too whether that’s food, history, nature etc. Finding things that fill everyone’s cups is important. And the biggest take away is to always carry snacks.
How crucial do you feel it is for your children to embrace their familial cultural roots, and how does this influence your parenting philosophy from both perspectives?
For us, it’s something we feel very strongly about. My husband, Nori, is Japanese and I’m the daughter of Maltese parents – that identity is really important for our boys. It is just part of our everyday lives, through language, food, stories, and conversations. They are really proud of their heritage and it’s really lovely to see them embrace that.
Are there multiple languages spoken in your home?
The boys are learning Japanese, although they are not bilingual. As a former language teacher, I’m often dropping Italian words into conversations at home. I hope the boys grow up with an appreciation for languages and language learning.
To be a mother is to….
Be the steerer of a ship.
A meal that you’d love to be made freshly postpartum…
Definitely a sushi platter. It’s what I’ve eaten both times as my first meal and they’ve probably been the most satisfying meals of my life.
What can people expect from your new book? Where can people preorder it?
My new book is all about good cooking every single day. It’s full of beautiful recipes that will inspire you to cook simple but delicious food. It also guides you on how to put together recipes in the book to make a complete menu – whether it’s a weeknight meal or a special weekend lunch. I’m so proud of this book and all of the recipes in it and I hope people love it!!
It can be pre-ordered online or at all good bookstores!
Follow Julias Journey here:
https://www.instagram.com/juliaostro/
Preorder her book here: